TRAVELOG 13: SOLOING ON THE VIA ALPINA, MONTREUX AND LAVAUX, SWITZERLAND
Content and images from this 2019 adventure provided by Suzann Stone and Justin Seale
Henry David Thoreau once said, "Me thinks that the moment my legs begin to move, my thoughts begin to flow." As I embarked on my solo mission of the first of two high Alpine treks to hike through Switzerland, I had no idea how many thoughts could flow through a man’s mind. I began the journey on the Via Alpina trail through the Bernese Alps from Lauterbrunnen to Montreux. The next 8 days I would push my mind beyond the limits of my body covering 95 miles and 34K feet of climbing across some of the most beautiful and challenging terrain in the Bernese Oberland. My mind swam through the highs and lows like a sea otter. Oftentimes, moving faster than I needed to for fear of unknown storms moving in and also the excitement of finding the treasures of each small town, I would arrive safely before sunset. Although my legs were conflicted, I continued on the 25-minute trek to Oeschinen Lake above Kandersteg, which turned out to be just as magnificent as the lake itself, passing by waterfalls, melting glaciers and alpine meadows with cows. Knowing each step brought me closer to a well-deserved aperitivo, my pace quickened and my pack seemed to lighten.
The terminus of the Via Alpina trek is Montreux. Situated on the far eastern shore of Lac Léman a.k.a. Lake Geneva, which is not only the largest lake in the country, but is also known for its jaw-dropping beauty. Sitting at an elevation of 372 metres and completely surrounded by mountain peaks, it boasts views of both Grand Combin and Mont Blanc. During several adventures over 3 days riding on Lake Geneva’s General Navigation Company boats, I observed the castles and villages connected by this magnificent lake. CGN’s fleet of historic belle époque paddle steamboats built during “the beautiful age” in the early 1900’s and restored in the early 2000’s, create a luxurious traverse of Lake Geneva. I chose to spend my time on the decks outside the cabins, blending into the international mix of visitors and locals leaning in to the breeze, soaking up the sun.
Montreux, whose history dates back to Roman times when it served as part of the road network connecting the capital of Roman Switzerland to Gaul, is now better known for its mild microclimate and the Montreux Jazz Festival, held in July. It marks the beginning of the “Swiss Riviera” a stunning breadth of coastline and viticulture along the shores of Lake Geneva. After shedding my packs at the Eurotel Hotel I set out to explore it’s promenade lined with flowers, sculptures, Mediterranean trees, and the iconic Chillon Castle. I was surprised to learn that Queen had recorded 7 albums at Mountain Studios in Montreux, which the band owned between 1979 and 1996, including the final album Made in Heaven. Ironically, it was Freddie Mercury’s birthday the day I was there and I unknowingly happened upon a crowd of thousands of people gathered around his statue on the promenade for the Freddie Celebration Day.
The next day I decided to lose myself in Swiss wine country. The lake steamer boarded early for a journey to the ancient vineyard region of Lavaux. A Unesco world heritage site, this 30km stretch of terraced vineyards has been producing wine since the 11th century when Benedictine and Cistercian Monasteries controlled the area and constructed the current vine terraces. Although home to a number of different grape varieties, Lavuax is best known for its production of Chasselas, a white, medium-bodied, dry grape that is a staple of the region. I began my day with an informative tour and tasting at the Lavaux Vinoroma, a modern architectural gem and the perfect introduction to the wines of the area. The day culminated with a guided hike through the Terrasses de Lavaux Lutry - St-Saphorin and a leisurely lunch at Auberge du Vigneron with the best boeuf tartare that has ever breached my mouth. I passed out early, counting Simmental cows and dreaming of seeing the Matterhorn on my next stop in Zermatt.
